Welcome to Khayelitsha

The view from the balcony

Today me and my friend Katie set off for Khayelitsha (Khayelitsha is a Township near Cape Town, South Africa see link) Getting to the township was an experience in itself. We boarded a mini bus taxi hoping to go in the direction of Cape Town. We were on the highway half way into town when the taxi pulled over. We were then shuffled onto another taxi where we crammed onto each others laps. After arriving in Cape Town we boarded our third mini bus tax with our destination being C- 685A Kiyane St, Khayelitsha (Site C). The mini bus roared down the highway and veered into the shandy town. Soon it was our stop and off we hopped. A friendly local walked us to our new address. Katie and I will be staying at the smallest bed and breakfast in South Africa.

The B & B I am staying at is actually more like a big family shack. Vicki, her husband and her daughter's: Siya (aged 5), Thandile (aged 10), Malandi (aged 13), Sandiswe (aged 14) and Landiswa (aged 20) and her son Ntsika (aged 8) all live in the shack. Along with members of the extended family such as Phiwo (aged 16) and Thando (aged 27) .

Within minutes of arriving we were welcomed by the real South Africa. Friendly locals, humidity, iron shacks and a different way of life. After dumping our bags we went next door to the Masakheni Fox Educare Centre. Masakheni's is where the beautiful children learn, laugh and play (see blog dated 1/2/11 titled Heartbreak Kids).

For lunch we went to an African butcher were we selected cuts of meat to be thrown on a braai. We then returned to the house and I once again had the privilege of eating meat and chakalaka with my hands.

After lunch I got an abrupt introduction to township life. Siya had a boil on her leg and I watched Vicki (her mum)and another lady hold her down to extract the puss with a hot glass bottle. Siya screamed, cried and howled. I went over and held her hand. It was heartbreaking to watch but their way of life is different. After the procedure was finished her mother held her and she was soon smiling.

As I sit here now in this wooden/iron shack I feel privileged to be able to immerse myself in a new culture

What Now

Table View, South Africa (day 35)

I spent another weekend with the beautiful children from Home of Hope. It was a lovely weekend full of sloppy baby kisses and priceless comments that only children can get away with. My experiences over the last month have been remarkable, emotive and inspiring.

Now I am sitting here asking 'what now'? 

Does ones life ever return to normal after such experiences?

The Good Life

Table View, South Africa (day 32)

 

Today I lived the good life. I slept in till 9am then made myself a lovely breakfast. I then caught a bus to Cape Town with two friends were we played happy tourists. We went to a museam, window shopped and laughed a lot. Then we had a late lunch at Mama Africa's on Long Street. I ate crocodile (and another large animal I can not remember the name of) on a kebab snd shared a Zimbabwean stew.

After returning to Table View I had the oppertunity to live my secret girlish fantasy. I got to slap on a charcoal face mask and cover my eyes with cucumber. 5 of us girls sat in a circle and posed for a photo. It was totally lame, but also lots of fun

What can I say life is tough in Africa.

A Little Bit Home Sick

Table View, South Africa (day 31)

Today I found out something really really big. I wanted to tell my friend's and family about my news.I wanted to celebrate, but I couldn't as it was 1.30 am in Australia and everyone was sleeping.  I wanted to hold someone but I am 10 000 miles from home.

I have to admit I am feeling just a little bit home sick. I miss my family, I miss my friends, I was miss my dogs and I miss my own bed.

True Meaning of Beauty

Somerset West, South Africa (day 28)

Today I discovered what the word beautiful actually means.

We set off this morning to meet Pat Cardenish O'neil who owns a farm in Somerset West (but more on Pat's farm later). To get to Somerset West we embarked on the most sensational road trip. The scenery was breathtaking; red tides, stunning mountain ranges and pitchure perfect beaches. U2 played softly in the background as I sat drunk with pleasure. We made a pit stop at Kalk Bay a beach side suburb were we visited this hip Cuban restaurant which I will definitely return to.

We made another pit stop at Muzenberg; where small, brightly coulered houses scattered along the coast. At Muzanberg the township of Khyaleishya met the sandy bay; poverty and beauty contrasted perfectly. Dark skinned children played ball games in makeshift fields, shandy shops bordered the informal settlement.

After our stop at Muzanberg we climbed back into the car. We drove for another 20 minutes before arriving at Pat's Farm.

Pat's farm is not like any other farm I have been to. "Pat Cardenish O'neil was born into a world of enormous riches, eccentricity and intrigue". Pat formerly lived in Kenya where she was the only white lady in the village. The fact that she was white and shared her bed with a lion made her seem even more magical. The tribal men would summons this 'white witch' to perform healing ceremonies.

Pat now owns a farm in Somerset West in the Western Cape of South Africa. Eccentric and Intriguing do not even begin to describe this peculiar 86 year old woman. Pat has 30 rescued dogs, fifteen rescued cats, baboons, horses, peacocks, chickens and a chimpanzee.

After arriving at Pat's farm we were warmly welcomed inside by a mountain goat and three Great Danes. Dogs, cats and this goat roamed the house freely. There were dogs everywhere. In the bedrooms, in the kitchen and unfortunately even in the bathroom. My friend attempted to go to the toilet but was interrupted by a brown dog the size of a horse.

After some exploring, stimulating conversation and a handshake from a chimpanzee we sat down for a lovely lunch. The meal was served up on fine china and it would have been classy had a goat not been taking a dump.

After saying our goodbyes to Pat and her many animals we headed for a winery. I do not drink wine so instead I went for a stroll through the magical scenery. An eagle flew past and disappeared into the sun. Rugged mountain ranges and sapphire ocean surrounded the ordered vineyards. The air smelt of sea salt and sour grapes. Birds sang, cows moaned as I walk bare foot along the warm pavement.

Today I discovered what the word beautiful actually means.

It's a Beautiful Day

Table View, South Africa- Day 27

Last night I went to the U2 360 tour in Cape Town, South Africa. The concert was held at Green Point Stadium a huge construction build for the 2010 world cup. The stadium stood proudly between the waterfront and Table Mountain; what a beautiful place to hold a concert. It was incredible; a see of people filled the stadium and their presence was like electricity. When U2 strutted on stage the sea of people roared and I am sure the music could be heard from Table View. Their performance was magical and inspirational. What an amazing opportunity to see U2 perform in Africa.

Inyama, Pap and Chakalaka

Gugulethu, South Africa (day 24)

Today I went to Gugulethu an African township for a REAL South African meal. I have to admit I have been very sheltered in Table View a affluent suburb near Cape Town. It would be easy for a tourist to come to Cape Town and gain absolutely no understanding of the challenges and povery people face.

So I was very excited to visit an eatery situated amongst the shandy houses of Gugulethu. First we went into a back shed were we selected the meat we wanted cooked on a traditional braai. Then we sat at tables where cool water was sprayed from the roof to keep the customers cool. Music played out of a car bonnet geared with a boom box. There were flys, ferril dogs and a gay Xhosa waiter it was brilliant. Then the Inyama (meat), pap and chakalaka arrived and I have to admit it was the best lunch I have ever had. My favourite part was being allowed to eat with my hands.

Conflict

Table View, South Africa (day 24)

How can I describe to you my journey so far. I can not remember the word that best describes the emotions I have been feeling. How part of me feels like I just flew into Africa yesterday, But how I also feel like I have lived here my whole life. Maybe conflicted is a good word to use but I am not sure.

There is so much beauty amongst me here. The beautiful children I have the privilege of caring for, the inspiring young ladies I live with and the rugged land of Africa I am getting the opportunity to explore.

I have not blogged for a few days. This has been because I have actually been thinking and feeling a lot. I know that this is ironic as it is probably when I need to write the most.

I had a nightmare the other night, a really awful nightmare. I woke up screaming. It shook me and I felt broken and vulnerable. This was not a nice way for me to feel as I am used to being so strong when I am amongst peers. I tried to ignore the nightmare and anxiety.

The next night before bed I sat up scared. One of the girls sat outside with me and held me. This moment was very significant for me. I sat there thinking... 'no I can not allow myself to let my guard down...get up Symon...No I do not let people hug me...get up Symon'. But I did not get up instead I sat there and I let her hold me. Then I asked myself why do I not allow myself to be held. Do I think I don't deserve it. Do I really want to go through my whole life without allowing someone to hold me. Human touch is something that really scares me so generally I pull away. But here in Africa I find myself needing personal touch.

Being away from home, my friends and my family means that I sometimes doubt who I am. Am I intelligent, likable, funny, caring. What do I believe and who do I want to be.

Perhaps I need to doubt myself completely before I can become strong and proud.

I Love You and I Also Love Fruit

Streets of Cape Town, South Africa (day 18)

We were at our final stop for the night. Me and some of the girls I live with were handing out the last of the sausage rolls and banana's. Street feeding was over for the evening. We were saying goodbye to the homeless people that we have grown attached to over the last three weeks . John Wayne an elderly homeless man that is the height of a ten year old embraced me. He wept into my breast refusing to let me go. I could not understand him through the tears. Katie one of the girls I share a room with translated for me. "I Love You and I Also Love Fruit" he had cried.

Goodbye John Wayne I will see you next week. We will be sure to bring some fruit.  

 

 

Robben Island Maximum Security Prison

Entrance to the maximum security prison

Robben Island, South Africa (day 18)

Today I went to Robben Island a former maximum security prison. This concrete and limestone jungle held captive political prisoners like the great Nelson Mandela. As I walked through the corridors and stared into Nelson Mandela's prison cell I was reminded of how strong and resilient the human spirit can be.

As I listened to a former political prisoner tell his story I felt very small and humble. I asked myself If I would ever have the courage to fight that hard. He was only a kid when he was sentenced to imprisonment on Robben Island yet he stood strong.

I did not feel the heartache at Robben Island. Only the Triumph.

Section 3 corridor

Nelson Mandela's Prison Cell

"I am the product of Africa and her long-cherished view of rebirth that can now be realised so that all of her children may play in the sun."

Nelson Mandela

"I learned that courage was not the absence of fear, but the triumph over it. The brave man is not he who does not feel afraid, but he who conquers that fear."

Nelson Mandela

Girls Girls Girls

Table View, South Africa (day 17)

I am enjoying being in a house full of girls. To be honest the idea of living in a house with 15 girls was  not something I was excited by.    But the girls are so much fun and easy going. Everyone is so different and brings something unique to the group. The camaraderie has been a pleasant surprise. I look forward to learning more from these amazing ladies.

May I Come Into Your Bubble

Table View, South Africa (day 14)

Today I decided to give the boys at Home of Hope a much needed lesson in personal space.

The majority of children at the house suffer from Foetal Alcohol Spectrum Disorder. Consequently their understanding of appropriate behaviour is practically non-existent. When one of the boys groped at my breasts for the third time in ten minutes I knew it was time for a lesson in bubbles.

'Listen up boys' I ordered in my most serious teachers voice. "We need to talk about personal space". I asked the boys to visualise a bubble around me and around themselves. I described this bubble as a person's personal space. I explained to them that for now on they had to ask me if they could come into my personal space and that I would do the same.  

So for the rest of the day I had little boys yelling 'excuse me Symon may I come into your bubble" before they smothered me in cuddles. I am sure I will have to continuously explain the concept of personal space for the remainder of my placement at Home of Hope.

SkyDiving

Cape Town, South Africa (day 13)

I expected to be terrified when the day came for me to jump out of a plane. Instead I was relaxed and grounded; possessed with quiet determination. I barely recognised this cool calm young lady.

This morning I boarded a taxi with three of my new girlfriend's and we headed north with the mission to jump out of a plane. We arrived at this shed in the middle of no where. There was a number of small aircraft's parked inside. Before long I was being dressed in my harness. I looked at the flimsy pieces of material and thought 'is this really going to prevent me from falling to my death'.

A few minutes later I was shuffled on this tiny plane that appeared to be held together using duct tape. Still I was not afraid. The engine of the plane roared and shook as we took off. We soared higher and higher. I was hypnotised by the beautiful, rugged scenery. I could have stayed in that moment forever.

Then we were 2500 meters above the sky and the screen enclosing us in the plane was removed. The nerves kicked in; as I was sitting with my legs dangling over the edge of the plane I screamed "I am not sure if......", to late I am falling.

Shit I am falling, yet I have never felt so safe. Adrenalin and courage rush through me as my stomach does somersaults. I am flipping and falling through the skies of Africa and I have never felt so alive.

Then the parachute is pulled and I am floating through the air. Now this is what I call paradise; peace, joy and serenity.

I feel like I can conquer the world. Fear no longer controls me.

A Little Sad and Frustrating

Table View, South Africa (day 11)

Work today was a little frustrating, and a little sad.

It was a little sad because Sandas* one of the children was collected from the foster home by his social worker with out notice. The child I said goodbye to appears to be the most emotionally damaged out of the toddlers. He came in to care at an older age after being rescued from the street. He has a lot of anger inside him for such a young child. I do hope his new family is good to him and he grows to be the child he is capable of being.

I feel for the long term staff and volunteers that did not even get the chance to say goodbye.

It was a little frustrating because we are overstaffed. It is hard to accept that while this service is being impregnated with too many volunteers, other services are desperate for help. When I decided to volunteer overseas I did so with the desire for a challenge. At the moment I feel like I am waiting for a baby to poop so I have something to do.  

I do realise however that my attitude plays a significant part in the how meaningful I find my work. So I have decided that I will use the skills I do I have to benefit the kids.

I could research exercises I can do with Gary* to help improve his speech, or activities that will help Jacob* enhance his motor skills. I can set up relays for the older children or organise other fun activities. This sounds more rewarding and beneficial than praying for a pooped nappy.

* names changed to protect privacy of children

The Good Life

Table View, South Africa (day 10)

Thunder storms, laughter and swimming in the rain. I am living the good life.

Night on the Town

Cape Town, South Africa (day 10)

Last night I went to an African restaurant with a group of volunteers I have been working with. The restaurant was located on the beach front where the sun set like a painting over the Atlantic Ocean. The mood was festive as we talked about the projects we have been working on and life in general. It was great to see how a group of people who's homes scatter across the globe can come together so well when we have a common purpose. I have to admit I expected that living with fifteen girls would be a nightmare to say the least. But I have been pleasantly surprised with the comradery that has formed amongst us.

So back to the night on the town; as I said we were eating at an African restaurant. I bravely ordered the ostrich in an attempt to try some real African food (I do hope it wasn't the ostrich I saw dancing in the Cape Peninsular). The ostrich was interesting but it was the atmosphere that made the night stand out. An African lady painting our faces, surf tables set in small swimming pools overlooking the sea and the soulful music.

It was nice to have a night on the town

Chatter Over Fences

Table View, South Africa (day 9)

I am at Home of Hope and I am sitting silently. I am quiet because I do not want to interrupt the conversation between the Xhosa children housed at Home of Hope and the Afrikaner children sitting  in a tree on the other side of the fence. The conversation in uncensored and adorable; like most chatter between children. But what I am thinking about is how different the interaction would be 30 years ago during the Apartheid Government, or if this conversation would have occurred at all?

I think children demonstrate the state of a society and this ordinary conversation between children over the fence suggests that South Africa has come a long way.

Heartbreak Kids

Khayelitsha, South Africa (day 8)

Today I went to the Township of Khayelitsha. Khayelitsha is a city of makeshift shacks that stretch 50 square kilometers. 2 million people live in these shandy houses made of scrap metal, timber and any other materials that can be of use.  While in the township I had the privilege of visiting a day care that caters for 100 children. A Xhosa lady started the day care to keep the children from the township off the street. She only charges the parent 50 Rand a month which is about 7 dollars. She hopes to gain a government grant soon but will continue regardless.

What amazes  me about South Africa is the people's generosity and resilience. People will give whatever they can to help and not expect anything in return.

But what I love most about South Africa is the children. How they have so much love and are so grateful for life and the little things they are given. It was at that day  care in Khayelitsha, while I was being smothered in the love of these children a flame was sparked inside my heart.

A fire of love, passion and the desire to do my part to make this world a better place. A fire that burns bright inside me and gives my life meaning. A flame that I will have to tend to as to ensure it never goes out.

Home and Away (Not the Lame TV Show)

Table View, South Africa (day 7)

Today marks the end of my first week. It feels like I have been gone for so much longer and my home in Australia feels like a lifetime ago. My journey so far has been a torrent of  contrasting emotions. There are hours of excitement and pleasure as I bask in the beauty of Africa.

There are other times that I feel a little blue. Those hours that I crave my own bed and things Australian like Vegemite. Moments that I miss my friends, family and my beloved dogs Fudge and Benji. Fleeting thoughts of those in my home land as I wonder how their day is 10 000 miles away. I think about the things I am missing; Samuel moving to a new house, Aimee starting year 12 and Nathaniel recording his first live album and I long to be there with them. Then a dark skinned toddler smiles and leaps into my arms and I remember why I am here.

I realise that I need to relish and savour these moments or they will pass me by.

So I vow to talk less and listen more, I tell myself to be spontaneous and daring and I scold myself for sleeping in till 8am. I want to come home in four months time and be able to proudly say I made the most of every possible opportunity.

My goals for this week include listening to what people say (not just hearing) which will consequently result in me talking less; I believe this is an important skill for me to learn. To stay in the moment and savour every experience (this means not revisiting my past or formulating plans for the future) and thirdly I am going skydiving

that's right SKYDIVING. I do not want fear to control me or prevent me from living; so the only sensible solution is to go skydiving.

So cheers to a new week