Get Me Out Of Here

Northern Cape, South Africa (day 68)

I want to escape. I do not want to be on this big orange truck for a second longer. I feel like screaming, I feel like crying.

I just want to go home

The Desert

The Namib Desert, Namibia (day 61)

I have always had very romantic ideas about what the desert would be like.

The Namib desert fulfilled my every expectation. The deep red sand dunes climbing over 300m high, the sweltering heat, the fossilised trees and the mirage of water in the horizon. The desert is a spectacular place

When the War is Over

Skeleton Coast (Cape Cross) & Namib Desert (day 61)

Today was spent traveling through the Namib Desert towards the Skeleton Coast. The scenery and atmosphere was in complete contrast to anything else I have seen in Africa. When I imagine what the world would be like after war and atomic bombs had ravaged our planet this is what I see.  

The Skeleton Coast is where the Namib desert meets the coast line. The shore was scattered with bones, there was rocks and sand as far as the eye could see. A grave yard stood amongst this ery scenery. I kept thinking I would see my own name written on one of tomb stones like you would in a horror movie.

The Skeleton Coast is definately not somewhere I would like to be stranded alone at night.

Open Your Eyes

Twyfelfontein, Namibia (Day 60)

Being surrounded my beauty does not necessarily mean you are immune to depression. In fact the lack of sleep and nomadic lifestyle that are so entrenched in travel can leave you vulnerable. Then bang you feel like crap and you are not sure why.

It has been a massive few days full of frustration and beauty. Yesterday started out badly. We were camping in Okakeo near Etosha national Park. It was an early start as we were going to visit a Himba Village. I must have rolled out on the wrong side of the bed (sorry I mean tent). I was in a filthy mood. I was ready to hop back into the truck and go back to sleep. Unfortunately the truck would not start. We tried pushing the truck with no luck. Then an electric compressor (or something like that) was ordered to help the truck start. But of course the compressor broke down as well. So it looked like we were going to be stuck for a while.

Four hours later we were piled into mini vans for a long sweaty drive. The Himba Village was put off for the day. We drove straight to the Otjitongwe Cheetah park near Kamajab, Namibia. That night the group was split through the middle. half the group slept in tents (which flooded) an the other half slept in a shed (which also flooded). The storm that night was ferocious with lightning illuminating the dark cheetah park. I was cold, wet and pissed off. Consequently I did not sleep much.

By the time we arrived at Twyfelfontein I just wanted to sleep. People describe Twyfelfontein as a rock amphitheatre. A place that can take you back in time. Some of the etchings date back to the early stone age. To my detriment I walked around groggy, feeling sorry for myself. Then I overheard one of the girls on my trip (who is a seasoned traveler) say she had never seen anything like this. At that moment I decided that I needed to push past how crappy I was feeling and look around.

Finally I opened my eyes (and my mind) and began to appreciate what I was seeing. The etchings were remarkable. I gazed at this etching of a stone age classroom and it looked like artwork. I imagined tribal children squatting like chimpanzees while a holy man taught them about the world. The holy man would tell them stories about their culture as he etched into the rock face.

Now I am sitting on the hillside exhausted but content. The sun is setting above the mountains and green planes. I feel relieved that I did open my eyes.

Beautiful Africa

Etosha National Park, Namibia (day 57)

We just went for a game drive (safari) through Etosha National Park and what a sight. Zebras galloping, black and white rhinos charging, giraffes spreading their legs to drink from the waterhole.

Dark angry clouds coated the horizon as lightning illuminated the sky. I think everyone in the truck was memorised by this remarkable sight. it was like someone created it just for us

Fearless

Benjani, Namibia (day 56)

I used to be afraid. I was scared of dying, fearful of the dark and terrified of demons. I found life in general very frightening. My fear controlled me and imprisoned me. Since coming to Africa I have become stronger and more resilient. It's not that I don't get scared anymore (because I do). I just don't allow fear to control me or consume me anymore. Now I can sleep in a dark tent on my own in the middle of no where. I can bunjee jump despite being crippled with fear. I can travel across the globe independently not allowing my doubts to hold me back.

It is empowering to no longer allow my fears to control me.

Chobe National Park

Kasane, Botswana (Chobe National Park), day 52

It has been a spectacular day. It was an early start, I was jolted awake at 5am. I began to curse under my breath until I looked up. I was memorised by a million shining stars and a ring around the moon. I had a quick breakfast before we set of for a early morning game drive (safari). The morning was moist and beautiful and smelt fresh with rain. We drove along the river banks and crossed through fields and bushland. A pack of cocky of baboons were having a scruff, seemingly oblivious to the warthogs passing by. Three jackals attempted to hide in the bushes. Meanwhile impala after impala sauntered by acting like they were the most important animals in the park. After our game drive we returned to the camp grounds for a lovely lunch.

In the late afternoon we were hopped into the big orange Gecko's truck and set of towards the river. We boarded a small speed boat and cruised along the Chobe river. A fish eagle sat in a tree as he scanned the waters. a Hippopotamus family popped their heads out of the water to look around. Then submerged themselves back under the water. Crocodiles and goanna's baked in the last of the days sun.

We watched these water beasts as the sun set. It was a bonus when a herd of elephants sauntered down to the river. The grown up elephants drank and bathed in the water. The baby elephants hid under their mother legs. Two teenage elephants played in the mud. they inhaled the mud and sprayed it over each other in what appeared to be adolescent deviance.

The sun set over Botswana as we returned to dry land. Another amazing day in Africa.

Elephant Land

Kasane, Botswana (day 51)

I was having a nap in my tent when I heard a elephant trumpet. I jumped, my heart beating like an excited child's. I ran towards the camp ground fence. There 30 or so elephants were marching towards the river. I cautiously moved closer. They were swimming, drinking and spraying mud over themselves with there brilliant trunks. To be so close to these wild beasts in frightening, thrilling and intriguing.

Crossing Over

Zimbabwe/ Botswana Border (day 51)

I crossed the border into Botswana today. (Botswana is my forth African country so far) It was pouring rain. We had to walk over chemical infused mats which is part of the fight against foot and mouth.  I am still finding border crossings quite exciting. I am sure novelty of it all will most likely fade by the end of my trip.  

A Sexy Passport

Livingstone, Zambia (day 50)

By the time I return to Australia I would like a good looking passport. So I decided to take the a trip onto Zambian soil.

"What is the purpose of your visit" the immigration officer asked me. "I would like a sexy looking passport I replied" He giggled to himself as he stamped my passport.

I Am Hungry

Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe (day 49-51)

As soon as you step into Zimbabwe you are swarmed by people. Men, woman and children. You cannot walk down the street without being accosted by desperate men; "I am hungry, my sister needs clothes". Children hold out their hands begging for money. Everyone is selling something (souvenirs, trillion dollar Zimbabwean bills). It is mentally and emotionally draining. It is heartbreaking and frustrating.

The Falls

Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe (day 49-50)

The falls are a magnificent feat of nature. The wind shoots the water up into the air like a grand blow hole. Then it falls back down on top of you like a summer thunderstorm. You stare in wonder as the water roars down the mountain. The sheer ferocity of Victoria Falls is indescribable.

I cannot question that there is a higher power when I see such magnificence.

The Jump

Victoria Falls, Zambia (day 49)

I am standing on the middle of the bridge that towers 210 meters above Victoria Falls. The falls form a natural border between Zimbabwe and Zambia and I am standing smack bang in the middle ready to jump. I am terrified, absolutely crippled with fear. I have already managed the bungee jumped and  the zip line. Now I am on the ledge about to complete my final jump.  I feel sick from the adrenalin and intense emotions. I am really not sure f I can do this. I am almost in tears as I try to force myself towards the edge. Never have I battled with my self so acutely. 'Do it, just do it', I scream at myself. 'Don't let fear hold you back' I chant. I close my eyes and I shuffle towards the edge. I can here people on the bridge yelling encouragement. Then I do; I jump. I plummet; I cannot breath, I am falling, falling. Then I begin to swing. The view is spectacular! I am swinging back and forth and I am so proud I was able to make that leap of faith.

Flying Out

Cape Town International Airport, South Africa (day 48)

I am at the airport in Cape Town. I am about to board my flight to Zimbabwe. This morning a couple of the girls woke up with me at 4.15am. We hugged, kissed and said goodbye.

It is hard to believe that I was standing at this airport only seven weeks ago. I was so unsure of myself and what the future held. So much has happened since then. I am now ready to endeavour on the next part of this journey.

What a Beautiful World

Cape Town, South Africa (day 47)

It is my final night at Aviva house in Cape Town, South Africa. I am not exactly sure how I feel right now. I do know I feel grateful. Grateful to have met the amazing, inspiring woman (and JP) at Aviva house. To have cared for and supported the beautiful, resilient children from Home of Hope and Khayelitsha. Grateful for the opportunity to have had the opportunity to explore Cape Town's splendour.

I have done and experienced so much over the last two months. I have began to forge some good friendships. I have experienced life in a township (even got a taste of culture shock). I stood inside the prison where Nelson Mandela was incarcerated for over two decades. Jumped out of the sky. I have supported children to walk, talk and read.

So much more has happened that I do not have the time to articulate. I did not realise it was possible to see and experience so much in such a short time. It sounds cliche, but this has been the most amazing experience of my life. Africa has stolen my heart.

I still haven't learnt to pronounce the click in Xhosa, nor have I climbed Table Mountain. These are just two of the things I look forward to doing when I return to Cape Town in three weeks time.

A Good Ride

Khayelitsha, South Africa-Table View, South Africa (day 46)

I am sitting in a mini bus with my friend Katie. I have to admit this is the best taxi trip I have had since arriving in South Africa. I suspect the driver may be a retired Formula 1 driver as he weaves through the traffic. The music is pumping and my mood is jolly. What a wonderful afternoon in South Africa.

Bubbles

Khayelitsha, South Africa (day 45)
 

When I arrived at the educare centre this afternoon the children and the staff were so excited to see me. The children's eye's lit up as they smothered me in cuddles. But still I struggled with the language barrier. Lucky I had bubbles! Bubbles are the best cross cultural tool  I have ever come across. Almost every child I have ever met loves bubbles. This was even more apparent at Maskaeni where the children spend most of their day completely under stimulated. They were screaming and laughing it was lots of fun.

Back Again

Khayelitsha, South Africa (day 45)

I am back at Khayelitsha sitting on the balcony. I am watching the people of the township pass me by in a kind of trance. I didn't really want to come. I am physically sick and have only a few days left before I leave South Africa. However I made myself return to Khayelishta.

It was an interesting trip here. The first mini bus was in bad shape. I had to laugh when the sliding door actually fell off. The second taxi was playing a game of how many people can you cram into a sixteen seet mini bus. The third mini bus trip was relativey uneventful. Now I am sitting here mentally preparing myself for another afternoon at the Maskaeni Fox Educare Centre

My African Family

Cape Flats, South Africa (day 42)

I have grown very close to Zackoni* ,a Xhosa lady the age of my mother. After much discussion she has informally adopted me. Today I went to church with her. Zackoni is a strong, beautiful black women and I have grown to love her. After church we went to her home in the Flats for a meal. Her family is beautiful and are a testament to her.  I had an amazing day and will treasure the memories forever.

Hope's Children

Table View, South Africa (day 40)

Let me tell you about the children I work with. I will call them hope's children. I have worked with many beautiful children sice coming to South Africa. Right now I would like to tell you about the children living in the residential unit I am working at.

Simba* is 5 years old. He is HIV positive and has Foetal Alcohol Syndrome. Simba could be the poster child for FASD (Foetal Alcohol Spectrum Disorder). As I can no legally show you a photo of Simba I will attempt to paint a picture with my words. He is has a small, wiry boy with a tiny head. His nose sits flat against his face and his ears are practically non existent. He was found abandoned when he was still a baby, eating his own feces to curb his hunger. He has been abused in every way possible. Simba brings me to life. He has a cheeky smile and struts around like a little man. He is hyperactive, witty, affectionate and I love him to pieces.

Sheila* is 9 her head has been shaved which means she is often mistaken as a boy. She can be seen in the backyard in the background sucking her thumb. Once you puncture her protective layer you discover a intelligent, empathic and sensitive little lady.

Carl* is ten and is the oldest of the children. He can do amazing back flips. He occasionally sneaks over for cuddles, despite his obvious desire to be the man of the house. Carl along with Sheila are keen to help with the babies and are very caring.

Zed* is 6 and is moody at times. However his good days more than make up for his strops. He often seems dissociated and distant and you think he is on another planet. But then her surprises you by answering the question you were sure he did not even hear you ask.

Then there are the babies. Mar* (3), Lutho* (2), Oly* (20 months), San* (20 months) & Talia (16 months) being the only baby girl.

Mar was found living on the streets only six months ago. He was a little fighter and was acutely damaged. When he smiled it melted your heart. He has been moved into foster care now and I only wish the best for him.

Lutho is another poster child for FASD. He is underweight, hyperactive, adorable and feisty. He has also been confirmed as being HIV positive. Lutho keeps my life interesting and has been a joy to work with.

San is the most affectionate baby you could ever hope to meet. He is chubby, uncoordinated and has googly eyes. San steals the hearts of everyone he comes into contact with and I will miss him dearly.

Talia is demanding and stubborn, however this seems to make her more endearing. I was there when Talia took her first few steps. I have been there since coercing her to continue

Oly is an affectionate, patient and loving little boy. He is physically beautiful with long eye lashes and a gorgesous smile. Oly was born premature and has FASD. He had an operation called a tracheotomy due to his lungs being underdeveloped (a tracheotomy is a surgical operation that creates an opening into the trachea with a tube inserted to provide a passage for air). Oly now has a tube sticking out of his neck that has to be cleaned regularly. Oly sits patiently as I insert a suction tube into the hole in his neck. He smiles as I sing to him.

I hope that I have been able to contribute a little to each child's life. For they have made such an positive impact in mine

We Are Marching in the Love of God

Khayelitsha, South Africa (day 38)

The neighbourhood children are marching up and down the street in the dark, singing "We Are Marching in the Love of God". It is beautiful to watch. I have fallen in love with the people living in Section C of Khayelitsha. It is a close knit community here. The kids I teach at school pop in and out of the house here. they start giggling when they see me "Missy Symon my teacher"

Who Needs Privacy

Khayelitsha, South Africa (day 38)

Things are obviously very different here in Khayelitsha. Things that we take for granted like sanitation and running water are not a given here. Many of the families living in the shacks still have to treck to the communal tap for water.

Another things that takes a while to adapt to is having no privacy. The idea of 'personal space' is not something African youngsters seem to understand. This is a good thing, but also a bad thing. It is a good thing because I have never been the recipient of such amazing cuddles. The kids in Africa give amazing kisses and cuddles. However it can be difficult when the children are jumping on me, touching my breasts and bottom and attempting to pull down my pants. The teenagers think nothing of reading your diary, climbing into your bed or coming into the bathroom for a 'chat' while you are showering.

This may take some time to get used to

A Good Day

Khayelitsha, South Africa (day 38)

 

It turned out to be a good day, despite my initial sense of doom. The work seemed more rewarding as I discovered the little things I do that make a difference. For example today a new boy started at the Educare centre. He was scared and overwhelmed. I was able to make his transition a little more bearable with lots of cuddles. By lunch time he was running the show.

Today is Going to Be a LONG Day

My eyes a swollen and itchy, my throat is sore and my head is aching. How do I say "shut the hell up I am getting a migraine" in Xhosa?

Today is going to be a LONG day

Khayelitsha, South Africa (day 38)

Community and Kinship

Khayelitsha, South Africa (day 37)

The evenings at Khayelitsha more than make up for the tribulations of working at the Eduare centre.

Khayelitsha is a world away from the volunteer house in Table View. I am sweaty, dirty, I have bites all over me and my whole body aches. Still I am so grateful to be here to get a taste of township life.

This afternoon my new African family took me for a walk through the township. We ate freshly cooked chicken feet. They turned out to be delicious despite their intimidating appearance. On return we played ball games in the street. It seemed the whole neighbourhood joined in. The sense of community and kinship here in section C of Khayelitsha is heart warming. I feel welcome in the neighbourhood.

Reality

Khayelitsha, South Africa (day 37)

Two years of lessons in cultural diversity seem completely superfluous. How do I go about teaching children when I cannot speak their language. I am shell shocked, exhausted and frustrated. Here in the Cape Flats there is no sea breeze; just humidity. I am working at the Masakheni Fox Educare Centre. There are over 100 children under 6 attending the educare centre. We are crammed into a building the size of a family home with the children; we are hot and sweaty.

It is frustrating when a little girl comes to me crying, speaking in Xhosa. I want to help, I want to understand but I do not know how.

This afternoon a group of tourists came to the educare centre. The children put on a show for these white strangers. After observing this I became quite saddened. Had my experience really been that superficial.

In the end it does not really matter. Now I am living and working amongst it. I am covered in dirt and sweat. My feet are bleeding and every part of me aches.

This is real!

Family Bonding

Khayelitsha, South Africa (day 36)
 

We have been welcomed into the Ntozini family with open arms. Tonight we all ate dinner together as the children gave us lessons in Xhosa (with a click). It feels great to become temporary members of this beautiful African family.