Vietnam...The Highs and Lows (So Far)

Nha Trang, Vietnam (day 101)

My ability to write has somewhat deteriorated due to lack of sleep. So I have decided I will use dot points to sum up my highs and lows in Vietnam so far.

The Highs

• Exploring the Chi Chu tunnels in my red shirt.
• Cuddling a snake on the Mekong River
• The sleeper train from Saigon-Nha Trang (now that was fun)
• Mud baths in Nha Trang
• The spectacular scenery
  

The Lows

• Waking to the sounds of screaming at 4am in Saigon. A Vietnamese man had broken into a friends hotel room. She woke up to find him crawling past her bed
• Watching another friend fall through the floor of a long tail boat on the Mekong River. She fell into the motor and has he ankle shredded. She was rushed to hospital on a motorbike (that's right a motor bike). She then had the amazing experience of a Vietnamese rural hospital.

Changed

Saigon, Vietnam (day 100)

I am not the same person I was one hundred days ago. I cannot define how I have changed but I know I have. 

Diary of a Street Kid

Sihanouk ville, Cambodia (day 95)

I forgot for a second. I forgot who I was and where I was; it felt good. I long for those few short seconds before I wake up. Where I can float between a dream world and reality. Where I can forget how messed up my life actually is. I want to stay in that moment forever but my ankles itch with fresh mosquito bites and my stomach gnaws with hunger pains. So I crawl off the ground and begin my day.

Sorry I forgot to introduce myself. My name is Kun and I am nine years old. I live on the streets of Phnom Penh, Cambodia. My mother died of Malaria three years ago. Now it is just me, my dad and my sisters. My dad lost his right leg after he kicked a landmine so he can’t work. So now it is up to me to make sure we survive.

My sisters sell bracelets and books in the city. I do whatever work I can. Some days we make lots of money. I proudly carry home a big bowl of noodles and our family has a feast. On those days I get to go to sleep with a full tummy. Other days we don’t make any money. Then I have to try and steal so we can eat.

Sometimes I find myself crying. When I realize what is happening I pinch myself real hard. The weak cannot survive in Cambodia. So instead I get angry. I look at other kids my age and I am filled with envy. I would love to go to school or giggle with my friends in the park. I get angry at my mum for dying and I get angry at my dad for only having one leg.

I hope one day that I can make more money. So we can get our own house and the girls can go to school. We will be able to feast on food every day and be able to forget what hunger pains feel like

First They Killed My Father

Phnom Penh, Cambodia (day 92)

I woke up last night screaming and thrashing my body, drenched in sweat. Perhaps for a second I felt the smallest fragment of the fear the Cambodian people felt during the Khmer Rouge

Today I visited the Tuol Sleng prison (a school transformed into a prison where they incarcerated and tortured men, women and children during the Khmer Rouge) and the Choeung Ek Killing Fields

As I walked through Tuol Sleng my stomach was queasy and my heart ached. Photo's covered the walls of child soldiers and inmates. I looked into the eyes of these people. Many of their eyes looked empty, like their souls had long ago departed their bodies. Other photos showed haunted faces their eyes glazed with terror. Some of the men and women were already dead and the photo's showed their tortured, lifeless bodies.

As I continued to walk through the grounds of the prison their were reminders of what these people endured. Equipment used to torture them, their cells and the chains that entrapped them. The Khmer Rouge soldiers even covered the balconies with barbered wire to prevent people from taking their own life (even suicide was a privilege not allowed).

I was drawn to a photo of e female prisoner with her baby in her arms. I can not begin to imagine what it would be like for a mother. How helpless and afraid she must have felt knowing she could not protect her own child.

After leaving Tuol Slend we made our way towards the Choeung Ek killing fields. This is the location where thousands of men, women and children were murdered and thrown into mass graves.

One of these graves held the bodies of women, children and babies. The women were buried naked as the soldiers 'raped them for fun' before killing them. Less than a meter away stood a large tree that soldiers titled the killing tree. The executors would hold the babies by the ankles and swing their tiny heads against the truck. After the babies heads were fractured they were thrown into the mass grave like a piece of trash. I stared at the tree and I wondered how something that was used to cause so much harm could still bare green leaves.

On the way out their was a stupor (a dome-shaped monument, used to house Buddhist relics or to commemorate significant facts of Buddhism). The stupor stood about 20 meters high. Inside on display were the bones and skulls of just some of the victims killed at the killing fields. The shelves grouped the skulls by age and gender (juvenile male, juvenile female, elder male)

As I sit here now I struggle to comprehend how humans can be capable of causing so much pain. When I think of Pol Pot I imagine this evil man with a malevolent smile. I am surprised how normal he actually looked. He could be anyone walking down the street. 

Still I am comforted when I look at the Khmer people so warm and kind. Their smiles so radiant as they stand proud. I am thankful that humans are resilient and I hope that at the end of the day good in humanity will always be a stronger force.

The Floating Village

Tonle Sap, Cambodia (day 88)

This afternoon we explored a floating village near Tonle Sap, Cambodia. We took a boat ride along a shallow river. The boat slowly chugged down the river towards a large lake.

As we drew closer families and children flocked towards out boat. A mother with four children drew close. She latched onto the boat and floated beside us. A baby and small child lay asleep on the floor of the small boat. The babies face was caked with dirt as insects buzzed around his naked body. His rib cage and swollen belly moved up and down very slowly reminding me of a  world vision commercial. His brother (I think) who was maybe four years old sat with his mother. A python was wrapped around his neck. The snake boy and his sister held out their hands begging for one dollar. Their desperation and sad hollow eyes made my heart ache. 

Another mother and her baby attempted to reach our boat. She too begging for money. When her baby started crying she cupped the water from the lake. She then poured this dirty, green smelly water into the babies mouth. "Only the strong survive here", some one said later as we talked about what we had seen. Other children in floating buckets paddled towards us asking for sweets and money.

People tell me that I should ignore the child beggars. But I cannot bring myself to do this. I do not want to pretend they are invisible. 

After visiting the floating village our boat chugged back along the river towards Siem Reap. The sun was setting and the floating village looked so beautiful as it was painted by the cherry horizon. I took in a deep breath and I wondered again how beauty and tragedy can so easily co-exist.

The Happy House

Bangkok, Thailand- Siem Reap, Cambodia (day 86)

Today I had my first experience of the Happy House. In South East Asia the word 'Happy House' is used to refer to the toilets.

Today in the "happy house" I got to use a squat toilet for the first time. I had to giggle to myself when I announced to the group that I was off to the happy house. I managed to use the squat toilet without incident and was quite proud of myself.

On the way out a little girl caught my eye. She was filling a water gun with the water/ sewerage from the squat toilet. This was a funny sight, but also a little tragic.  It screams how poor this little girls living standards must be for her to so naturally use this water.

Water Pistols and Flour

Bangkok, Thailand (day 85)

I flew in to Bangkok this afternoon with apprehension. The smog covered the city like a grey cloud and everything seemed so large and overwhelming. However within minutes of arriving in Bangkok I knew everything would be okay. A friendly Thai taxi driver weaved through the city streets talking to me about Thailand. I arrived at my hotel and met the guys I will be travelling with for the next month. To my relief they all seem really cool.

For dinner we went to a small restaurant but I was distracted from my dinner. The streets were alive with the sounds of music and screeching as people soaked each other with water pistols and flour. I was excited to experience it.

After dinner we made our way back on to the Bangkok streets. However while caught up in my enthusiasm I got lost (surprise, surprise). So I tried to make my way through the maze of Bangkok's dark streets and alleyways, meanwhile I was getting attacked with water pistols and covered in powder. It was actually a lot of fun

I would definitely recommend that if you have to get lost in Bangkok at night you do so during Buddhist New Year Celebrations.

Silence

Phuket, Thailand (day 85)

I haven't conversed with anyone for more than 20 seconds since leaving Africa six days ago. This has left me with ample opportunity to think. Somehow the days have passed me by with me moving around content and serene. Two years ago this amount of time would have surely seen me admitted into a psych ward.

It is now so clear to me how far I have come. I have grown and matured so much. I don't think I would even recognise the girl I was if I bumped into her on the street.

Home Sick

Phuket, Thailand (day 84)

It hit me hard for a second. I could feel it pushing against my chest; suffocating me. The desire to pack my my bags and come home near possessed me. But like anything the feeling passed.

South East Asia (Finally)

Kuala Lumpar, Malaysia (day 80)

I did not intent to come to Malaysia (not today anyway). However unforeseen circumstances led me here.

I have to tell you I am very impressed. Everyone I have met so far is so friendly and helpful. Everything seems so organised and sophisticated. It has been a nice start to my stay in South East Asia. This is a relief as I have to admit I was scared shitless.

What a Mess

Cape Town, South Africa (day 77)

So I am still in Cape Town! My plane flew out yesterday (without me). I am giving myself a mental slap across the face. How could I have missed my flight by 24 hours. I called my insurance company with no luck, "we don't insure mistakes mam" the man mumbled.(they don't insure stupidity I think he meant).

My finances have gone down the shitter real fast. I try to get in contact with people back home but no one answers their phone. So I race around Cape Town sweaty and frustrated trying to sort this mess out.

Change of flight to Kuala Lumpar- R1400, Flight to Johannesburg- R765, Unused Thailand hotel room R1600, New Flight to Thailand R700, Emergency Accommodation in J'burg-R300

Being stranded in Africa because I stuffed up the flights: Priceless

South Africa

It Feels Like Home To Me

Cape Town, South Africa (day 72)

"How many kilometers are we from Cape Town", I call to Kenny (our faithful tour leader) across the truck. We are still 235 km's away Symon. My South African mobile is buzzing and beeping with messages from my Cape Town friends. I feel like I am coming home.

As we draw closer buildings and scenery bring back happy memories and I long for the truck to go faster. Then finally I am in Cape Town being smothered in cuddles from my friends.

At that moment I realise Cape Town is home to me now. I feel comfartable and content. My confidence returns and my breathing ralaxes. "Home sweet home" I say to myself.

Now as I sit here at my home in Table View it dawns on me. I am leaving in 5 days. Now I am going to have to get to know a new culture and make new friends. It is exciting yet daunting. I dream of staying here forever.

Then I think about my little brothers and sisters, my home and my mums cuddles. I think about my friends and my beloved dogs Fudge and Benji. I remember that while I am comfortable here my true home is still 10 000 miles away.